Seney National Wildlife Refuge: Kayaking Through Wilderness

 Peaceful Paddle from Big Cedar to Mead Creek State Forest

Northern Michigan is full of hidden gems, but few adventures rival the quiet magic of paddling through the Seney National Wildlife Refuge. Two of our Adventures in Northern Michigan family members recently explored this serene stretch of the Upper Peninsula and came back with stories, tips, and a heartfelt shoutout to some true U.P. hospitality. If you’ve ever dreamed of floating through untouched wilderness, this trip is for you.

A Kayak Launch, A Warm Welcome

Our travelers set out with their own kayaks—an adventure in itself when you’re not sure where to launch. Most outfitters in the area weren’t able (or willing) to help since they weren’t renting the boats. Just as things were starting to look tricky, Big Cedar Campground stepped in like true Upper Peninsula heroes.

Not only did they allow use of their launch, but for a small fee, they also helped with a vehicle shuttle—making the whole adventure possible. In our friend’s words: “All around good people and the only ones in the area who would do that.” Big Cedar, you’ve got our respect (and now a permanent place on our must-visit list).

The Paddle Begins: Into the Refuge

Launching from Big Cedar Campground, the journey began with a gentle current and tree-lined banks. After about a mile, the route passed under the M-77 bridge—marking the entrance to the Seney National Wildlife Refuge.

From here, the world went still.

For the next ten miles, it was pure, unfiltered wilderness. No manmade structures. No road noise. Just the sound of birdsong, the whisper of the wind in the trees, and the occasional “crack!” of a tree falling in the forest. The river carried them past tiny inlets and creeks that poured into the Manistique like miniature waterfalls, adding both charm and soundtrack to the day.

The water was surprisingly warm—warmer than the Muskegon River, which they frequently paddle downstate. It felt welcoming, not chilly, which added to the ease of the float.
Near the end of the journey, a sign announced that they were exiting the Refuge boundary. Fifteen peaceful minutes later, they pulled out at Mead Creek State Forest Campground, where they had left their vehicle. A seamless, soul-filling adventure.

About Seney National Wildlife Refuge

Located in Michigan’s eastern Upper Peninsula, the Seney National Wildlife Refuge is a sanctuary for both wildlife and weary souls seeking quiet beauty.

This sprawling landscape supports:

• 200+ species of birds
• 50 species of mammals
• 22 types of reptiles and amphibians
• 26 species of fish
• 420+ species of plants

From trumpeter swans to osprey, from bald eagles to loons, Seney is a birder’s dream. You might even spot ABJ and Fe, the world’s oldest known pair of common loons—once legendary lovers, now living separate lives (yes, we wrote about their drama, too!).

You may also glimpse deer, black bears, red foxes, porcupines, and maybe even a fisher, a rare weasel-like mammal native to this region.

The Refuge is open for:

• Driving: Check out the Marshland Wildlife Auto Drive (open daylight hours May 15–Sept. 30).
• Hiking & Biking: Trails range from easy walks to more rugged adventures.
• Paddling the River: Book a trip with Big Cedar Campground or bring your own kayak with local support. The refuge does not allow paddling in the pools ( lakes, ponds, etc.)
• Leashed Dogs Welcome: Bonus for pup-lovers!

Make sure to visit the temporary Visitor Center (details below) to learn more about wildlife, habitats, and current projects.

🛠 Renovations Alert:

Thanks to funding from the Great American Outdoors Act, a new Visitor Center is under construction. The headquarters area and Show Pool picnic area may be closed mid-summer—check online or call ahead for updates.

Plan Your Own Paddle

If you’ve got your own kayak and are looking for an easy, beautiful, and wild day trip, this route from Big Cedar Campground to Mead Creek State Campground is hard to beat.

✅ Easy launch
✅ Helpful locals
✅ Wildlife galore
✅ No noise, no crowds
✅ Just you, the water, and the wild

Pack your dry bag, bring your binoculars, and don’t forget a tip for the folks at Big Cedar. This is the kind of adventure that reminds you why we keep falling in love with Northern Michigan.