What We Loved, What Surprised Us, and What We Would Do Differently
A couple of months ago we published an article about Kitch iti Kipi that was based on a visit by a family member several years ago. I knew I would be driving to Marquette for my daughter’s wedding at the end of July, so I planned our trip to include a stop at Michigan’s largest freshwater spring. After hearing about it for years, I was excited to finally experience it for myself.
We left Traverse City a day early with our two youngest grandchildren, ages seven and nine. We planned to spend a few hours exploring the spring before continuing on to Marquette.
In our previous article we mentioned that people often say the colors almost do not look real, and that photographs never quite capture the beauty of the spring. I definitely agree about the colors. They really are remarkable. As for the photos, I actually thought many of the pictures I had seen beforehand were a pretty accurate representation of what we experienced.
Rather than repeating everything from our original article, this one focuses on what it was actually like to visit Kitch iti Kipi during the busy summer season. If you are looking for the history and geology of the spring, be sure to read our article, Kitch iti Kipi, Michigan’s Mesmerizing Mirror of Heaven.
Getting There
We used Google Maps to navigate to Palms Book State Park, and getting there was simple. Leaving was another story.
When it was time to continue on to Marquette, we discovered we had no cell service. Fortunately Google Maps still had our home saved as a recent destination, so we used that until we reached an area with enough signal to enter our hotel address. Unfortunately, that meant driving about twenty minutes out of our way before getting back on track.
Tip: Download or enter your next destination before arriving if you are relying on your phone for navigation.
Arriving at the Park
Kitch iti Kipi is located inside Palms Book State Park, so you will need either a Michigan Recreation Passport or a day pass to enter.
We already had a Recreation Passport, so we were prepared. Interestingly, there was no one working at the entrance booth when we arrived on a Wednesday. Whether that is common or just happened to be that day, I am not sure, but it is definitely best to come prepared.
The parking lot was smaller than I expected. Several large motorhomes and campers were taking up multiple spaces, but thankfully we still found a parking spot after our four hour drive from Traverse City.
One thing we appreciated immediately was having restrooms and a gift shop close to the parking lot. After spending several hours in the car with two excited grandchildren, both were welcome sights.
The Walk to the Spring
After a quick restroom stop we headed toward the spring.
As we mentioned in our previous article, the walk is very short along a boardwalk that is both stroller and wheelchair friendly. It only takes a few minutes to reach the observation raft.
What we were not expecting was the line.
Even on a Wednesday afternoon we waited about an hour before boarding the raft.
Riding the Observation Raft
The observation raft is a large wooden platform that moves across the two hundred foot spring using a hand crank connected to an underwater cable. Visitors take turns turning the wheel to move the raft from one side of the spring to the other.
Naturally, all of the kids wanted to be the ones to drive.
The wheel is heavier than it looks, so younger children will probably need some help from an adult. Since the raft is powered entirely by visitors, each group decides how long they stay on the water.
The group before us spent nearly thirty minutes exploring the spring. Thanks to a few enthusiastic dads helping with the wheel, our trip lasted closer to fifteen minutes.
The raft has a large viewing area in the center with railings all around, allowing everyone to look straight down into the spring while others enjoy the views from the outside edge.
Is the Water Really That Beautiful?
Yes.
The water really is that amazingly clear, and the shades of blue and green are just as striking in person as they appear in photographs.
Looking through the opening in the raft, we could easily see the sandy bottom, the swirling spring vents, and the underwater logs resting far below the surface.
The spring stays crystal clear because it is constantly fed by natural groundwater that acts as its own filtration system. Excess water flows into a small outlet stream before eventually reaching nearby Indian Lake.
Watching the sand gently swirl while the water remained perfectly clear was probably the most fascinating part of the experience.
Where Were All the Fish?
One thing that surprised us was the number of fish.
Or rather, the lack of them.
Years ago my family member showed me photos filled with large fish swimming beneath the raft. During our visit there were only a handful.
A DNR employee riding with us explained that there were currently three adult fish, one female and two males, along with one young fish living in the spring. He also shared that the female has a notch in one of her fins so biologists can identify her when collecting eggs for future stocking efforts.
He also mentioned that divers periodically clean the bottom of the spring, retrieving everything from phones to hats and other items visitors accidentally drop into the water.
While I understand that fish populations naturally change over time, I have to admit I was hoping to see a few more swimming beneath us.
Summer Crowds Have Changed the Experience
The spring itself is absolutely beautiful, and I am very glad I finally made the trip.
What surprised me most was just how busy everything has become.
There were lines for the raft, lines for the restrooms, and the gift shop was packed shoulder to shoulder with visitors.
Years ago my family member remembered a much quieter experience. That certainly was not the case during our visit.
If you are planning a summer trip, especially on a weekend, I would expect even larger crowds than we experienced on a Wednesday.
A Note About Pets
Before I say anything else, let me start by saying we love animals. All of our children have dogs, cats, chickens, guinea pigs, and just about every other pet you can imagine. The only reason we do not currently have another dog is because we travel often and spend plenty of time babysitting our granddogs.
What surprised me was the number of dogs visiting the park.
Pets are allowed throughout the park and on the observation raft, which is wonderful for many families. However, if you have allergies to dogs, there really is no way to avoid close contact, especially while waiting in line or riding the raft.
During our visit, one large dog in our raft group was clearly uncomfortable around other dogs. The owners repeatedly warned people that their dog did not like other animals, and throughout the ride the dog barked, lunged, and had to be restrained several times.
Fortunately no one was hurt, but it made the experience more stressful than peaceful. It also made it difficult to hear much of the information the DNR employee was sharing.
If your dog is uncomfortable around crowds or other animals, this probably is not the best place to bring them during the busy summer season.
The Gift Shop
After our raft ride the kids made one more restroom stop before we visited the gift shop.
Although it was crowded, we were pleasantly surprised by both the selection and the prices.
The grandchildren each picked out shirts, toys, and candy. I even found a pair of earrings that turned out to be perfect for one of the wedding dinners in Marquette.
Our total came to less than $75, which felt very reasonable considering everything we purchased.
Back on the Road
After leaving the park we finally got back on track toward Marquette.
By then we had two very hungry grandchildren in the back seat. Took a bit but finally found the Rapid River Pub for burgers and pop before finishing the drive.
It ended up being the perfect way to wrap up the afternoon.
Would I Visit Again?
Kitch iti Kipi had been on my Northern Michigan bucket list for many years. I am genuinely glad I finally experienced it. The spring is beautiful and the water is incredibly clear. Watching the sand dance beneath the raft is something everyone should see at least once.
For me, though, it was a one time visit.
The long wait, the large crowds, and the overall experience checked the box, but I do not personally feel the need to return.
Our grandchildren absolutely loved it, and watching them take turns cranking the raft and peering into the crystal clear water was probably my favorite part of the day.
If you have never been, I would absolutely recommend visiting. Just go with realistic expectations. During the summer you may encounter long lines, crowded walkways, and plenty of fellow visitors enjoying one of Michigan’s most famous natural attractions.
I would love to hear from those of you who visit regularly. What keeps bringing you back year after year?
Helpful Tips Before You Visit
Here are a few things worth knowing before your trip.
A Recreation Passport Is Required
Since Kitch iti Kipi is located inside Palms Book State Park, you will need either a Michigan Recreation Passport or a day pass to enter.
Download Your Directions Ahead of Time
Cell service can be limited in the area, so enter or download your next destination before leaving an area with good reception.
The Walk Is Very Short
The boardwalk from the parking lot to the spring is only a short walk and is accessible for both strollers and wheelchairs.
Expect a Wait During Summer
Even on a Wednesday afternoon we waited about an hour to board the observation raft. Weekends are likely to be even busier.
Drones Are Not Allowed
Drone use is prohibited within the park.
Pets Are Welcome
Dogs are allowed in the park and on the observation raft. If you have allergies or are uncomfortable around dogs, be aware that avoiding close contact may not be possible during busy times.
Enjoy all the pictures we took that day
